A lily flower with a central pistil surrounded by stamens. The six orange structures are pollen-laden anthers, each borne at the end of a stalk known as a filament. (more) Sandpaper (100/220/500 grit) - I use a mesh type sandpaper, as it is very flexible and doesn't clog As previously stated this option will produce more uniform colors, but multiple rounds can be done to combine different colors in the same flower. Secondly, I am assuming a variety of things, such as workshop ability. I am 17, have done a Design and Technology (Resistant Materials) GCSE (woo A*) for which I was awarded an engineering scholarship, spent many, many hours doing metal and woodwork both in and out of school and in general love working with my hands. It's therefore safe to say that what I may find simple (texturing, peening) may be a complex process to many of you, so I have tried to make this project as simple as possible, whilst still producing a satisfying end result that looks, and feels, professional. I have kept all the stages exactly the same as the first time I made one, so I haven't dumbed it down at all, but want to warn you - this is not something that can be done without commitment to the project. It really is worth it though.

Irises grow from rhizomes. They produce blade-like leaves. The Copper Iris produces flowers of a coppery orange or reddish-brown hue. Each flower has three petal-like sepals that either spread wide or arch downwards. Right! Now that you've worked your way through that rather long list of tools, we can move on to the materials you'll need. Although this is called the Brown Calla Lilly the bloom, in all its perfection, certainly has something of the copper about it. Calla Lilies are simply divine and this beauty is definitely going to get attention! 15. Copper Bronze Spider MumNow, flip the hammer over so you're using the crosspeen head. Begin to strike the edges of the petals, to create a series of radial indents that all point towards (or thereabouts) the centre of the petal. This gives each petal a nice texture. Don't worry about texturing the centre of each petal, as it won't be seen. It's important to be brave here and strike quite forcefully - you're looking for something that looks like this: Few words before I begin (skip ahead if you want, nothing here's essential): This is my first attempt, ever, at making a guide to a metalworking project (or actually to a project of any sort) - whilst I have guided friends through making things in person, I've never tried to communicate steps just via words and pictures. So this is a new type of challenge for me, and the outcome may not be perfect. That said, I know that I may make steps too complex/it's fairly easy to be misunderstood, so if you do want clarity on a particular step, just comment and I'll do my best to fill you in. This is a fairly simple metalworking project, as there is no welding of any kind involved, which can sometimes dissuade beginners. Ok, so onto a list of tools and materials. Most of this is fairly crucial to the project but should be in your toolbox anyhow: Of course, there are also many flowers crafted from copper should you desire more long-lasting copper floral renditions. The naturally copper flowers we’ve seen would undoubtedly burnish a garden in a coppery sheen of joy! Editor’s Recommendations

Cutting fluid (optional) - this helps to make a nice, clean thread as well as prolonging the life of your tools. Cordless Drill/Drill Press/Dremel/Hand Drill - as long as it can take a 5mm (3/16" or thereabouts) drill bit, you're good. Repeat with the other petal of the rectangle, but form it around the first petal to form a 'bud'. Now, use your pliers to bend up, shape and curve the next 16 petals to your liking - I can't really be much help here, as it's all down to what your idea of a rose is. However, I can tell you what I do. I normally bend and curve the first 8 (top two layers of squares) quite severely upwards and inwards, to form a larger bud. I then steadily reduce the angle of the bends for the next two layers, to make it so the bud is opening out.Steel M6 hex nuts - very common, and very cheap. Keep a couple spare, in case something goes wrong. With delicate, ornate petals and long protruding stamens, this wonderful blossom will catch the eye. Its superb warm coppery tones are a delight. 20. Little Princess Dwarf Tulip Finally, curl the tops of your petals outwards to expose the texturing you worked on, and crinkle the edges - this step really makes a huge difference. In the photos, I'm going to be making two roses (to demonstrate the normal method, and the workaround method) so don't worry if what you're doing doesn't match up exactly - though everything should be obvious enough.

Ounce the templates have been traced drill out the center hole for the stem with a 1/4" drill bit. It will be easier to drill the hole while the copper sheet is still whole rather than after it has been cut into smaller pieces. USE CAUTION and stay safe. The copper will want to catch and spin when you get through it so make sure it's fully secure and wear gloves. This is a tall, bearded, Iris in a simply divine hue. The ruffled edges of the petals and sepals and the coloring, as well as the absolutely gorgeous design of the Iris blossom, make this a scintillating plant to own! 18. Austrian Copper Rose This is very important - if you don't do this right, you won't be able shape the rose later. Take the next square, and align it with the first. Then, align the fourth with the second. Finally, simple thread the rectangle on top - it doesn't really matter about alignment, though I make it in line with the third out of habit.The more times you do this, the easier it is to judge when the colour is just right and how long it takes to heat it to that state - practice, and you'll be doing it in no time!