So much for this not being Toogood’s specialist subject … though he does fail to mention the finest frozen fish product of all: fish fingers – served, of course, in white bread with an obligatory dollop of salad cream. Naysayers can talk to the hand.

Want to get the kids to have more seafood? Start with breaded fish fingers. The crispy outer covering and juicy fillet inside will make everyone want more. If you’re in the mood for a classic dish, try our fish and chips recipe to dig into some good British food. Perfect for your weekend match nights, serve them with extra chips to keep the appetisers going. He’s not wrong there, but even so, an unnaturally uniform frozen cod portion is never going to compare with a prime fillet, so, yes, you do have to use it slightly differently. “Frozen is especially useful in fish cakes, pies and curries – anything that’s a bit forgiving,” Gokani says. “It also benefits from being paired with strong flavours. Obviously, don’t cook from frozen – defrost it fully first.” Try telling that to my mother: one of her signature dishes is frozen white fish baked on a base of onion, garlic, peppers and tomato until it’s no longer crunchy, and the memory sends me all Prousty.